One of the most satisfying Rio experiences is walking the full length of Leblon-Ipanema, from end to end. I did this on a crowded day, when the beaches were full of young people playing futevólei -- or simply put, kicking a ball back-and-forth in the air. Navigating through this endless parade of flying balls is as thrilling as being swept up in the waves as they collapse upon the shore.

February 2015.